I think one week is enough to begin anew. Another day another foggy blog.
Watching traditional fisherman at work is one of the most powerful things I have ever seen. I would like to think that I have always had a romantic relationship with the sea and all that occurs there, but this may not be true. Seeing rows of dhows lined up in dark, murky waters with sinewy fisherman pouring glittering streams of fish into buckets and sacks upheld by men and women is truly incredible. It is as though these men rage an endless undeclared war against that which gives them life. I have never known what it is like to be a fisherman and probably never will. The profession is more of a way of life as it is passed down like sturdy furniture. The sea has the fisherman's soul and his soul is his boat. The dhows I have seen are like the favorite stuffed animals of children, torn and battered from years of tireless love and necessity. Each boat has its own named brightly painted on the side in whitewashed letters. One that I saw yesterday said "Ndiyo Mzee," which means "yes sir," a pretty fair homage to the trade. What else can one say to an unpredictable source of food? Now, the fish stores are really running low. Overfishing and global warming is swiftly reducing local populations and leaving the people to rely on other sources, such as fruits and other produce from the sister island of Pemba. One of the more tragic scenes of the fish markets is seeing squids and octopus hung out like drying sea grass. I have a soft spot for these creatures of the deep. They are incredibly intelligent animals who have no chance against the spears of hungry people. In order to hunt for squid, one must go out at night and cast a small amount of bait. Squid are mostly nocturnal predators, and will eagerly rise to close enough to the surface to be blinded by quick flashes of light from fisherman. Shining light quickly into the water paralyzes the squid so that they can be easily caught. It is one of the many sad examples of marine exploitation, but for some people it is nevertheless a necessity. One way to combat this process is to simply not buy or eat them, which is not a problem for me anyway. For all the brains in the supple bodies of octopus and squid, they taste like shit to me.
From water comes food but also death. To be so reliant on a single system that is at its breaking point is very dangerous, but as it stands there cannot be another way. Zanzibar's second method of generating income and cheap food is through the fisheries; the first is tourism. Except the food part. Well, maybe a few fleshy foreigners with hairless legs might get "lost" near the Red Colobus preserve, but otherwise tourism only generates money.
And once again my timer is counting down. I will try to update this post or have a re-post or have a post for my post-thesis about a post-modern post-person. Berry good. Abrupt ending starts now.
Saturday, October 15, 2011
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
My love of the sea but not of all it's inhabitants
I promise that this post will be about something other than animals, but that's just what we've been surrounded by for the past couple of days soooo waddahyah gonna do.
First off, the Indian Ocean is tragically beautiful. I used the word "tragically" because in a couple decades it might be brimming with the corpses of all the animals dependent on coral reefs for survival. Which also means that coral reefs are dying at a staggering rate and there's not much we humans can do about it. I used the word "beautiful" because it sounded nice next to the word "tragically." Also because you can see several shades of blue from the beach and the view is breathtaking, mind-numbing, and mind-exploding all at the same time. The site of overdeveloped land to the right, left, and behind you is awe-inspiring, but in a much more insidious way.
The majority of resorts found on Zanzibar are owned by wealthy Italians with eyes for obvious beauty and the decision to exploit it. I am not being prejudiced or stereotypical here. And if it seemed like I was, I am definitely not aware of a stereotype of Italian people owning resorts in tropical places. With development comes displacement and perpetuated poverty, not to mentioned the destruction of key parts of the environment. Many villages and their inhabitants have been relocated, wilfully or otherwise, to make room for extravagant mini-cities that become the annual residence of people who have absolutely no respect for the native culture or the courage to be self-critical. The bikini-clad women waltzing up and down the creamy white beaches of balmy east Zanzibar are blissfully ignorant of their insulting choice in clothing, or lack there of. Although Zanzibar has been infused with many different walks of life, the predominant culture is derived from Muslim values, one of which is extreme modesty in one's presentation. Along with the colonial aspect of isolated paradise, these people, who I can safely call Westerners, are simply adding salt to a bandaged but very deep wound.
Along with the coastal resorts, many of the tourism companies of Zanzibar are not locally owned. However, while Western influence has had an arguably negative effect on the pair of islands, there is one place that, in my eyes, has earned redemption. The island of Chumbe is quite incredible. This place has become an internationally recognized ecological preserve and is widely known as having some of the most well-preserved coral reefs in the world. Chumbe was initially bought by an individual who had surprisingly good intentions. The first plan was to make Chumbe into an educational facility to spread environmental awareness, but it soon became much more than that. All of the facility's practical needs are sought after locally, such as boat services, food, personnel, etc. These are only a couple of ways the island directly impacts the lives of local people in a positive way. There are many different projects, educational and otherwise, that involve local inhabitants. There is an annual competition where all the students on the island put together projects that will help their communities live sustainably. The local fisherman are banned from fishing near certain parts of the island to prevent losses in biodiversity and coral population, but are also educated in ways in which their fishing could be more sustainable. The islands accommodations, power sources, building design, and waste treatment are all extremely sustainable. For example, in each of the 7 bungalows there is an internal well where rain water is collected stored. Rain water drains from the intelligently designed roof into basins filled rocks in order to filter the water. The internal well is kept in complete darkness to prevent algae from growing. This water can then be pumped into a solar water heater for warm showers. The sink also uses water from the internal well. This water can be stored for very long periods of time. The island is a very unique place and is one of the few resort-type areas that promote the prosperity of local people.
We also got to snorkel there and it was awesome.
Because of what I have seen underwater and in the lovely pictures found in educational books, I now know where horror and science fiction writers, producers, and directors get their ghastly and grotesque ideas from. One does not need to go to see the latest sci-fi film to be horrified/filled with giddy awe. Just google sea spider or sea worm and your screen will be filled with what inspired movies such as 'Alien' or 'War of the Worlds.' The things that quietly dwell beneath the depths of the ocean are truly some of the most terrifying, un-earthly beings I have ever witnessed, including all the fictional monsters and little green men. The funny thing is that most of the disconcerting animals are not interested in the flesh of human beings and feed on organic matter floating around in the water. Kind of a backwards reality compared to the emotional response that these things produce in you. Well, at least in me. Some people say "Cool!" when I say "Holy shit what the hell is that thing!?" which is followed by a wavering "Oh, it is kind of cool."
We are now staying at the Tamarind Beach Hotel, which is apparently not owned by a wealthy Italian although the neighbouring resorts are, in order to conduct our itertidal research. The hotel is located near the small village of Uroa on the the eastern side of Zanzibar. The other day I met a man who was renting his home out to vacationers. He was also building a beach, which is a strange and startling line of work, for the use of the patrons of some resort south of where we are staying. We have also met a few men who have propositioned the women of our group to be their girlfriends/wives very nonchalantly. I admire their boldness but not their intentions. I have made several interesting friends on the island, but that will be saved for future post material. While staying here, we have conducted several low-tide walks during which we goggle at the various creatures that have been stranded by the receding tide. Unfortunately, none of them have resembled the nightmarish silhouettes of the things found in books. That aside, we have seen some pretty fantastic animals. Today, Leslie told us about meiofauna which are microscopic creatures that live between the granules of sand. Barnicles have the biggest penis to body size ratio and sea cucumbers eat sand. The Man-O-War jellyfish is not a jellyfish at all but a giant floating colony of different, specialized organisms. How is that not at least slightly startling? Also, at any given moment while you are in the ocean, you will be most likely swimming through the feces, eggs, and sperm of thousands of different animals.
On that note, I'm going to go look at ghost crabs. I hope the rest of the world is doing moderately well.
-George
First off, the Indian Ocean is tragically beautiful. I used the word "tragically" because in a couple decades it might be brimming with the corpses of all the animals dependent on coral reefs for survival. Which also means that coral reefs are dying at a staggering rate and there's not much we humans can do about it. I used the word "beautiful" because it sounded nice next to the word "tragically." Also because you can see several shades of blue from the beach and the view is breathtaking, mind-numbing, and mind-exploding all at the same time. The site of overdeveloped land to the right, left, and behind you is awe-inspiring, but in a much more insidious way.
The majority of resorts found on Zanzibar are owned by wealthy Italians with eyes for obvious beauty and the decision to exploit it. I am not being prejudiced or stereotypical here. And if it seemed like I was, I am definitely not aware of a stereotype of Italian people owning resorts in tropical places. With development comes displacement and perpetuated poverty, not to mentioned the destruction of key parts of the environment. Many villages and their inhabitants have been relocated, wilfully or otherwise, to make room for extravagant mini-cities that become the annual residence of people who have absolutely no respect for the native culture or the courage to be self-critical. The bikini-clad women waltzing up and down the creamy white beaches of balmy east Zanzibar are blissfully ignorant of their insulting choice in clothing, or lack there of. Although Zanzibar has been infused with many different walks of life, the predominant culture is derived from Muslim values, one of which is extreme modesty in one's presentation. Along with the colonial aspect of isolated paradise, these people, who I can safely call Westerners, are simply adding salt to a bandaged but very deep wound.
Along with the coastal resorts, many of the tourism companies of Zanzibar are not locally owned. However, while Western influence has had an arguably negative effect on the pair of islands, there is one place that, in my eyes, has earned redemption. The island of Chumbe is quite incredible. This place has become an internationally recognized ecological preserve and is widely known as having some of the most well-preserved coral reefs in the world. Chumbe was initially bought by an individual who had surprisingly good intentions. The first plan was to make Chumbe into an educational facility to spread environmental awareness, but it soon became much more than that. All of the facility's practical needs are sought after locally, such as boat services, food, personnel, etc. These are only a couple of ways the island directly impacts the lives of local people in a positive way. There are many different projects, educational and otherwise, that involve local inhabitants. There is an annual competition where all the students on the island put together projects that will help their communities live sustainably. The local fisherman are banned from fishing near certain parts of the island to prevent losses in biodiversity and coral population, but are also educated in ways in which their fishing could be more sustainable. The islands accommodations, power sources, building design, and waste treatment are all extremely sustainable. For example, in each of the 7 bungalows there is an internal well where rain water is collected stored. Rain water drains from the intelligently designed roof into basins filled rocks in order to filter the water. The internal well is kept in complete darkness to prevent algae from growing. This water can then be pumped into a solar water heater for warm showers. The sink also uses water from the internal well. This water can be stored for very long periods of time. The island is a very unique place and is one of the few resort-type areas that promote the prosperity of local people.
We also got to snorkel there and it was awesome.
Because of what I have seen underwater and in the lovely pictures found in educational books, I now know where horror and science fiction writers, producers, and directors get their ghastly and grotesque ideas from. One does not need to go to see the latest sci-fi film to be horrified/filled with giddy awe. Just google sea spider or sea worm and your screen will be filled with what inspired movies such as 'Alien' or 'War of the Worlds.' The things that quietly dwell beneath the depths of the ocean are truly some of the most terrifying, un-earthly beings I have ever witnessed, including all the fictional monsters and little green men. The funny thing is that most of the disconcerting animals are not interested in the flesh of human beings and feed on organic matter floating around in the water. Kind of a backwards reality compared to the emotional response that these things produce in you. Well, at least in me. Some people say "Cool!" when I say "Holy shit what the hell is that thing!?" which is followed by a wavering "Oh, it is kind of cool."
We are now staying at the Tamarind Beach Hotel, which is apparently not owned by a wealthy Italian although the neighbouring resorts are, in order to conduct our itertidal research. The hotel is located near the small village of Uroa on the the eastern side of Zanzibar. The other day I met a man who was renting his home out to vacationers. He was also building a beach, which is a strange and startling line of work, for the use of the patrons of some resort south of where we are staying. We have also met a few men who have propositioned the women of our group to be their girlfriends/wives very nonchalantly. I admire their boldness but not their intentions. I have made several interesting friends on the island, but that will be saved for future post material. While staying here, we have conducted several low-tide walks during which we goggle at the various creatures that have been stranded by the receding tide. Unfortunately, none of them have resembled the nightmarish silhouettes of the things found in books. That aside, we have seen some pretty fantastic animals. Today, Leslie told us about meiofauna which are microscopic creatures that live between the granules of sand. Barnicles have the biggest penis to body size ratio and sea cucumbers eat sand. The Man-O-War jellyfish is not a jellyfish at all but a giant floating colony of different, specialized organisms. How is that not at least slightly startling? Also, at any given moment while you are in the ocean, you will be most likely swimming through the feces, eggs, and sperm of thousands of different animals.
On that note, I'm going to go look at ghost crabs. I hope the rest of the world is doing moderately well.
-George
Friday, September 30, 2011
Recapping the recap: Bears and bugs. And booze.
I've encontered the very common, rather abundant alcoholic form of Mount Kilimanjaro and I'm having to bravely face its draining cliffs and tiresome inclines so bare with me.
When we were in Ngorongoro Crater, there was a Safari car ahead of us that contained tourists from somewhere other than Africa. A rather bulky, earnest fellow and is seemingly disinterested wife who was seen sitting in the back looking at her nails. At this point in time, everyone had stopped to strain their eyes to see the rare rhino off in the distance. The gentleman to that I refered to previously made several outbursts during our observation period. One of them was in reference to the vervet monkey: "Look! Look (name of disinterested wife)! The blue-balled tiny monkey!"--My biology teacher Leslie quietly attempted to correct him--"Oh oh, the Blue-Balled Vervet Monkey!!" He was not mistaken. The animal in question does in fact have gonads with a robin's egg blue tint to them. Somewhat startling the first time you see it but you get accustomed to it. Shortly after his astute observation came another, more astonishing from my (and hopefully our) perspective. Close to the rhino were several colobus monkeys. Colobus monkeys have long tails and are mostly seen jumping around in trees with surprising finesse and agility. Colobus monkeys are black and white in color, weigh between 20 and 30 pounds, and have anverage length of 30 inches (http://www.awf.org/content/wildlife/detail/colobusmonkey). Colobus monkeys are monkeys. The guy we've been discussing thought he saw something a little bit different: "Oh wow! Oh wooow! Look, next to the rhino! I think... Yes! There's a bear there!" There is not a single bear in all of Africa. You'd have to go all the way to Spain to find the closest bear. In fact, the only native bear to ever exist in Africa, the Atlas Bear, went extinct sometime in the 18th century. To this man's credit, the Atlas Bear was very small compared to the North American Brown bear, one of its closest cousins. I, however, have no sympathy for this guy's dumbfounding ignorance. To our surprise, this family was not from North America. Our group left in suppressed giggles.
Now, on to the second part of my alliterative title. We probably won't reach the third part.
The insects of East Africa have all made their way into my entomological heart. Well, most of them. I have seen hissing safari ants, walking sticks, camel spiders, real spiders, driver ants (truly terrifying when you imagine them the size of a person. Actually, most six or eight-legged (coined a word? (paranthesis for emphasis)) creatures are terrifying when you imagine them as human sized animals), a praying mantis, moths, parisitoid wasps (just as terrifying being the size they are), bees that instill cold fear due to their size, giant millipedes, termites (winged and non-winged), ant lions, aphids, butterflies, stink bugs, dung beetles, locusts, roaches, tsetse flies, worms, caterpillars, and grasshoppers that could eat your face if they didn't eat plants. Thankfully, they all do. I'm sure there are more that I didn't mention but that's enough for right now. The ants are my favorite. Safari ants get their name from the devastating raiding parties they conduct. They go on trips in large groups, hence Safari, and raid nearby termite mounds or whatever else they find. They will often return to the same mound to milk it for all its worth, which is a shit ton of termites, similar to the relationship the U.S. has with countries that have natural oil wells. The Safari ants also make this horrific hissing sound by rubbing thier mandibles together whenever they are disturbed. I love it. So far we have only seen one caste of this species of ant: the worker. Some species have multiple castes, or ants that have specific jobs, within their social culture. Driver ants, or Siafu as they are called in Tanzania, have 5 castes: major workers, minor workers, soldiers, male ants, and the queen. Another interesting thing about ants is that they are all female except for the rare males who's only function is to impregnate the queen. Completely matriarchal. Driver ants never stay in one spot for a significant amount of time. They are constantly looking for new food sources to feed their teeming masses, which can add up to 22 million. These ants swarm whatever crosses their path and strip the food source bare in seconds. They can travel up to 20 meters in one hour. The queen is the largest ant in the world, measuring up to 5cm. She lays between 1-2 million eggs a month and can live for up to 15 years. That's a lot of ants. Also, all of the ants except for the males and qeen are blind. They communicate with pharamone trails and lead each other to new places. The soldiers are so strong that you can feel the tug if you put a stick between their massive jaws. If there was a hivemind that controlled all these ants, the terristial life of this planet, aside from plants, would be finished in days. So cool.
I like ants the most because of their sociology. They are perfectly selfless animals that perform their duties in order to provide enough for the rest of the community. For example, driver ants create living ladders and caverns when they create temporary nests. Ants will cling to each other to create a path for others to deliver food and carry the infants. Workers feed the soldiers because their jaws are too big to ingest anything. I'm not trying to draw a prallel between military personelle and civilians, but humans could learn a thing or two from the way ants operate.
It's also really cool to watch them swarm and devour something.
Now I have entered the troubling climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro and I'm feeling a little discouraged. So I will leave you, my loyal readers, with a Swahili lesson.
Ninahitaji kwenda kulala.
I need to go to sleep.
-George
When we were in Ngorongoro Crater, there was a Safari car ahead of us that contained tourists from somewhere other than Africa. A rather bulky, earnest fellow and is seemingly disinterested wife who was seen sitting in the back looking at her nails. At this point in time, everyone had stopped to strain their eyes to see the rare rhino off in the distance. The gentleman to that I refered to previously made several outbursts during our observation period. One of them was in reference to the vervet monkey: "Look! Look (name of disinterested wife)! The blue-balled tiny monkey!"--My biology teacher Leslie quietly attempted to correct him--"Oh oh, the Blue-Balled Vervet Monkey!!" He was not mistaken. The animal in question does in fact have gonads with a robin's egg blue tint to them. Somewhat startling the first time you see it but you get accustomed to it. Shortly after his astute observation came another, more astonishing from my (and hopefully our) perspective. Close to the rhino were several colobus monkeys. Colobus monkeys have long tails and are mostly seen jumping around in trees with surprising finesse and agility. Colobus monkeys are black and white in color, weigh between 20 and 30 pounds, and have anverage length of 30 inches (http://www.awf.org/content/wildlife/detail/colobusmonkey). Colobus monkeys are monkeys. The guy we've been discussing thought he saw something a little bit different: "Oh wow! Oh wooow! Look, next to the rhino! I think... Yes! There's a bear there!" There is not a single bear in all of Africa. You'd have to go all the way to Spain to find the closest bear. In fact, the only native bear to ever exist in Africa, the Atlas Bear, went extinct sometime in the 18th century. To this man's credit, the Atlas Bear was very small compared to the North American Brown bear, one of its closest cousins. I, however, have no sympathy for this guy's dumbfounding ignorance. To our surprise, this family was not from North America. Our group left in suppressed giggles.
Now, on to the second part of my alliterative title. We probably won't reach the third part.
The insects of East Africa have all made their way into my entomological heart. Well, most of them. I have seen hissing safari ants, walking sticks, camel spiders, real spiders, driver ants (truly terrifying when you imagine them the size of a person. Actually, most six or eight-legged (coined a word? (paranthesis for emphasis)) creatures are terrifying when you imagine them as human sized animals), a praying mantis, moths, parisitoid wasps (just as terrifying being the size they are), bees that instill cold fear due to their size, giant millipedes, termites (winged and non-winged), ant lions, aphids, butterflies, stink bugs, dung beetles, locusts, roaches, tsetse flies, worms, caterpillars, and grasshoppers that could eat your face if they didn't eat plants. Thankfully, they all do. I'm sure there are more that I didn't mention but that's enough for right now. The ants are my favorite. Safari ants get their name from the devastating raiding parties they conduct. They go on trips in large groups, hence Safari, and raid nearby termite mounds or whatever else they find. They will often return to the same mound to milk it for all its worth, which is a shit ton of termites, similar to the relationship the U.S. has with countries that have natural oil wells. The Safari ants also make this horrific hissing sound by rubbing thier mandibles together whenever they are disturbed. I love it. So far we have only seen one caste of this species of ant: the worker. Some species have multiple castes, or ants that have specific jobs, within their social culture. Driver ants, or Siafu as they are called in Tanzania, have 5 castes: major workers, minor workers, soldiers, male ants, and the queen. Another interesting thing about ants is that they are all female except for the rare males who's only function is to impregnate the queen. Completely matriarchal. Driver ants never stay in one spot for a significant amount of time. They are constantly looking for new food sources to feed their teeming masses, which can add up to 22 million. These ants swarm whatever crosses their path and strip the food source bare in seconds. They can travel up to 20 meters in one hour. The queen is the largest ant in the world, measuring up to 5cm. She lays between 1-2 million eggs a month and can live for up to 15 years. That's a lot of ants. Also, all of the ants except for the males and qeen are blind. They communicate with pharamone trails and lead each other to new places. The soldiers are so strong that you can feel the tug if you put a stick between their massive jaws. If there was a hivemind that controlled all these ants, the terristial life of this planet, aside from plants, would be finished in days. So cool.
I like ants the most because of their sociology. They are perfectly selfless animals that perform their duties in order to provide enough for the rest of the community. For example, driver ants create living ladders and caverns when they create temporary nests. Ants will cling to each other to create a path for others to deliver food and carry the infants. Workers feed the soldiers because their jaws are too big to ingest anything. I'm not trying to draw a prallel between military personelle and civilians, but humans could learn a thing or two from the way ants operate.
It's also really cool to watch them swarm and devour something.
Now I have entered the troubling climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro and I'm feeling a little discouraged. So I will leave you, my loyal readers, with a Swahili lesson.
Ninahitaji kwenda kulala.
I need to go to sleep.
-George
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Foist Post
Well it´s about damn time I got to postin´. I don't know what's been taking me so long. Oh, maybe the extrordinarily inconsistant power problem.
Tanzania has one power company, which means there is no competition and therefore one standard of power supply, which is very low if we compare it to western standards. We expect power all the time, whereas Tanzanians can hope for power most of the time. The corruption plays a huge part in all of this, since the power problem could be solved if a little extra money was used productively instead of being pocketed by the "cabbage head" president and his compatriots. The working Tanzanian government is comparable to a ten headed clown trying to decide which face paint to wear before going out to make people laugh.
That aside, the first lesson I learned here was that of hospitality. Tanzanian culture prides itself on graciousness and the treatment of guests. Actually, the treatment of fellow human beings. If one has a guest in their house, they are obliged to provide as much as they can for the guest as long as the guest sticks around, which can be for a very long time. Years, quite literarlly. It is extremely inappropriate to ask one's guest when they are leaving or for how long they plan on staying, so people stay as long as they want. Most of the time, guests stay as long as they have to.
Gender roles: there are a few. Women are expected to perform all responsitbilites that pertain to the home, which includes cooking food and taking care of children. Women get married at a younger age than men most of the time. If the marriage ends up being problematic, there isn't much a woman can do. Divorce is frowned upon here and is socially stigmatized, which disuades many women from going that route. Most of the time, women who have run into trouble will look to their families for support. Family structure and integrity is incredibly important here and most families are quite large. Families support each other and help members out whenever they are in need. A family will often help pay for the education of children collectively.
MORE LATER I HAVE 30 SECONDS LEFT AT THIS INTERWEBZ CAFE.
p.s. I would like to talk about our safari experiences, but I will save those for later posts. Something to bring the few followers back....for more dribble.
Tanzania has one power company, which means there is no competition and therefore one standard of power supply, which is very low if we compare it to western standards. We expect power all the time, whereas Tanzanians can hope for power most of the time. The corruption plays a huge part in all of this, since the power problem could be solved if a little extra money was used productively instead of being pocketed by the "cabbage head" president and his compatriots. The working Tanzanian government is comparable to a ten headed clown trying to decide which face paint to wear before going out to make people laugh.
That aside, the first lesson I learned here was that of hospitality. Tanzanian culture prides itself on graciousness and the treatment of guests. Actually, the treatment of fellow human beings. If one has a guest in their house, they are obliged to provide as much as they can for the guest as long as the guest sticks around, which can be for a very long time. Years, quite literarlly. It is extremely inappropriate to ask one's guest when they are leaving or for how long they plan on staying, so people stay as long as they want. Most of the time, guests stay as long as they have to.
Gender roles: there are a few. Women are expected to perform all responsitbilites that pertain to the home, which includes cooking food and taking care of children. Women get married at a younger age than men most of the time. If the marriage ends up being problematic, there isn't much a woman can do. Divorce is frowned upon here and is socially stigmatized, which disuades many women from going that route. Most of the time, women who have run into trouble will look to their families for support. Family structure and integrity is incredibly important here and most families are quite large. Families support each other and help members out whenever they are in need. A family will often help pay for the education of children collectively.
MORE LATER I HAVE 30 SECONDS LEFT AT THIS INTERWEBZ CAFE.
p.s. I would like to talk about our safari experiences, but I will save those for later posts. Something to bring the few followers back....for more dribble.
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